I carries 23,000 to 30,000 volts when the set is turned on (your spark through the damaged insulation). It's connected from the flyback, to the anode plug on the TV tube. That heavy red wire is called the 'ANODE'. If the panel isn't secure, when you depress the on-off button, the whole switch can move backwards instead of just depressing the switch for activation. The broken front panel legs most likely WERE the reason the set wasn't turning on. Lots of questions, will take a shot at some of them. What could I check next or should I replace any parts? I checked what was going on and discovered that the HV wire has a small hole and must have discharged to the coils on the CRT (see the pictures). While the TV was OFF and I was checking the board while the HV wire was still connected to the CRT, I heard a spark. The front panel buttons had broken legs which I soldered back, but I don't think it has had anything to do with the TV set not turning on. I checked the voltage between C and E of HOT, it is 125V DC. The transistors themselves seem to be OK tested with my multimeter. I found dry joints and have re-soldered them. Seems like a few transistors have been running very very hot. The small board on the neck of the CRT seems to have suffered. I checked the voltages coming out of the PSU after rectifier diodes and they all are present, so this leads me to believe that the PSU may actually be fine.

I tested it with a multimeter out of the board and it seems to be OK.

I suspected the power supply, because I saw a big dark spot on the board under the capacitor C325 (, appears almost black). The problem: the owner said that lately the TV would not always turn on, now it doesn't turn on at all. I tried to troubleshoot alone, but my experience is very limited, so I couldn't find the cause of the problem. I have a CRT TV of a local brand name (TAURAS) that I got for repair.

Schneider tv service manual